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Textiles: Background and Overview
History
In the early 17th century of colonial America, textiles were primarily manufactured in New England homes. Flax and wool were the major fibers used; however, cotton, grown primarily on Southern plantations, became increasingly important. Through the 18th century, factories were established that processed textiles with manual labor. By the 19th century, the first mill in America to use power looms began operations in Lowell, Mass. It was the first time that all textile manufacturing operations were being done under the same roof.
The 20th century has seen the development of the first manmade fibers (rayon was first produced in 1910). Although natural fibers (wool, cotton, silk and linen) are still used extensively today, they are more expensive and are often mixed with manmade fibers such as polyester, the most widely used synthetic fiber. In addition, segments of the textile industry have become highly automated and computerized.
The textile industry is characterized by product specialization. Most mills only engage in one process or raw material. For example, a mill may be engaged in either broadloom weaving of cotton or broadloom weaving of wool. Similarly, many mills specialize in either spinning or weaving operations, although larger integrated mills may combine the two operations. These large mills normally do not conduct their own dyeing and finishing operations. Weaving, spinning, and knitting mills usually send out their fabrics to one of the approximately 500 dyeing and finishing plants in the United States.
Table 1 provides examples of the variety of textile products and end uses.
Table 1
| Application |
Example
products |
| Apparel |
Clothing
(woven and knits), hosiery, belts |
| Defense |
Several products, e.g., material for flags,
lightweight
fibers for aircraft wings, tents, parachutes,
bullet-proof vests, helmets.
|
| Space
exploration |
Textile-based
heat shields, space suits |
| Medical |
Artificial
arteries and kidneys, bandages |
| Industrial |
Liners for highways and reservoirs, belts,
gaskets, hoses, gloves
|
| High-tech
uses |
Communications satellites (fabrics in panels, circuit boards, receivers and senders), fabric roofs, printed circuit boards in computers and other electronic equipment
|
| Automobiles
and airplanes |
Tire
cord, upholstery, roof liners, hoses |
| Home
furnishings |
Carpets,
sheets, towels, draperies, upholstery |
| Others |
Firefighter uniforms, dental floss, food
packaging, luggage, insulation, and other uses
|
| Source: Preliminary Industry Characterization: Fabric Printing, Coating and Dyeing
, page II-9 |
Textile Sector Industrial Classification
The majority of textile manufacturing operations have historically been classified under the 1987 Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) system codes 2200 and 2300. Table 2 provides a detailed description of industry classifications within SIC 2200.
Table 2
| 3-digit
SIC code |
4-digit
SIC Code |
| SIC
221- Broadwoven Fabric Mills, Cotton |
SIC 2211 -
Broadwoven Fabric Mills, Cotton |
| SIC 222- Broadwoven Fabric Mills, Manmade Fiber and Silk |
SIC 2221 -
Broadwoven Fabric Mills, Manmade Fiber and Silk |
| SIC
223- Broadwoven Fabric Mills, Wool (Including dyeing and finishing) |
SIC 2231 -
Broadwoven Fabric Mills, Wool (including dyeing and finishing) |
| SIC 224-
Narrow Fabric Mills: Cotton, Wool, Silk and Manmade Fiber |
SIC 2241 -
Narrow Fabric Mills: Cotton, Wool, Silk and Manmade Fiber |
| SIC 225-
Knitting Mills |
SIC 2251 - Women?s Full-Length and Knee-Length Hosiery, except socks
SIC 2252 - Hosiery,
not elsewhere classified
SIC 2253 - Knit Outwear Mills
SIC 2254 - Knit Underwear and Nightwear Mills
SIC 2257 - Weft Knit Fabric Mills
SIC 2258 - Lace and Warp Knit Fabric Mills
SIC 2259 - Knitting Mills, not elsewhere classified
|
| SIC
226- Dyeing and Finishing Textiles, except wool fabrics and knit goods |
SIC 2261 -
Finishers of Broadwoven Fabrics of Cotton
SIC 2262 - Finishers of Broadwoven Fabrics of Manmade
Fiber and Silk
SIC 2269 - Finishers of Textiles, not elsewhere classified |
| SIC 227
- Carpets and Rugs |
SIC 2273 -
Carpets and Rugs |
| SIC
228- Yarn and Thread Mills |
SIC 2281 - Yarn Spinning Mills
SIC 2282 - Yarn Texturizing, Throwing, Twisting and
Winding Mills
SIC 2284 - Thread Mills
|
| SIC 229-
Miscellaneous Textile Goods |
SIC 2295 - Coated Fabrics, not rubberized
SIC 2296 - Tire Cord and Fabrics
SIC 2298 - Cordage and Twine
SIC 2299 - Textile Goods, not elsewhere classified
|
| Source:
EPA Office of Compliance Sector Notebook Project: Profile of the Textile Industry
, page
5 |
In 1997, the U.S. Department of Commerce switched from the 1987 Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) system to the North American Industry Classification System (NAICS). Both NAICS and SIC categorize establishments by the principal activity in which they are engaged.
NAICS, developed in cooperation with Canada and Mexico, classifies North America's economic activities at 2-, 3-, 4-, and 5-digit levels of detail, and the U.S. version of NAICS further defines industries to a sixth digit. The Economic Census takes advantage of this hierarchy to publish data at successive levels of detail. Taken from U.S. Census Bureau Guide to the 1997 Economic Census.
Within the NAIC system, textile related operations are covered in the codes 313, 314, and 315. These codes include operations previously included in both 2200 and 2300 as well as a few additional selected SIC codes.
Textiles - Economics and Demographics
The textile industry has historically been one of the largest, most diverse, and most dynamic segments in the U.S. manufacturing sector. Based on the 1997 Economic Census, SIC code 2200 represented 6,155 establishments with in excess of $82 billion in value of shipments and 550,000 employees, while SIC code 2300 represented 23,411 establishments with in excess of $81 billion in value of shipments and 800,000 employees.
View economic data for 1992 and 1997 economic census data within SIC 2200 and 2300 in the 1997 Economic Census:
Comparative Statistics for United States 1987 SIC Basis: Manufacturing or as NAIC codes 313, 314, and 315 in the 1997 Economic Census:
Bridge Between NAICS and SIC
Menu of NAICS Sectors.
While the textile industry has operations impacting all 50 states, 75 percent of all U.S. textiles and apparel is produced in eight southeastern states. A breakdown of employment for the major textile producing states is provided in Table 3.
Table 3
| Textile
Employment In Major Producing States 2000 |
| Total
U.S. Employees: 541,000 |
| NC |
143,700 |
MASS |
13,100 |
| GA |
102,200 |
NY |
11,800 |
| SC |
68,900 |
NJ |
8,500 |
| ALA |
37,700 |
RI |
6,400 |
| CALIF |
27,100 |
KY |
4,200 |
| VA |
26,300 |
MISS |
4,200 |
| PA |
18,600 |
FLA |
3,700 |
| TENN |
15,600 |
MAINE |
3,100 |
| Source:Quick Facts About U.S. Textiles
and Textile Complex Employment And Gross Product By State |
Table 4 shows the major states for employment and Table 5 shows the percentage of facilities for a particular employment range within the SIC 2200 (data in both Table 4 and 5 is based on 1992-1995 economic census data).
Table 4
| 3-digit
SIC code |
Major
states (based on employment) |
Approximate % of employment in 3-digit SIC
code category, attributable to major states
|
| SIC
221 |
NC,
SC, GA, ALA |
87 |
| SIC
222 |
SC,
NC, GA, VA |
79 |
| SIC
223 |
VA,
GA, MAINE, NC |
69 |
| SIC
224 |
NC,
PA, RI, SC |
52 |
| SIC
225 |
NC,
KY, LA, NY, GA, PENN, TX, NJ |
40 |
| SIC
226 |
NC,
SC, GA, NJ |
63 |
| SIC
227 |
GA |
64 |
| SIC
228 |
NC,
GA, SC |
70 |
| SIC
229 |
NC,
SC, GA, ALA, TENN, MASS, OH, NY |
40 |
| Source: EPA Office of Compliance Sector Notebook Project: Profile of the Textile Industry
, page 9
|
Table 5
| Industry
SIC Code |
Percentage
of Establishments with 0-19 Employees |
Percentage
of Establishments with 20-49 Employees |
Percentage
of Establishments with 50-99 Employees |
Percentage
of Establishments with 100 or More Employees |
| SIC 221 |
64 |
4 |
4 |
28 |
| SIC 222 |
40 |
8 |
6 |
46 |
| SIC 223 |
45 |
22 |
9 |
23 |
| SIC 224 |
49 |
14 |
14 |
22 |
| SIC 225 |
44 |
21 |
14 |
21 |
| SIC 226 |
32 |
22 |
15 |
31 |
| SIC 227 |
53 |
12 |
9 |
26 |
| SIC 228 |
24 |
11 |
13 |
52 |
| SIC 229 |
58 |
18 |
11 |
12 |
| Source:
EPA Office of Compliance Sector Notebook Project: Profile of the Textile Industry
, page 7
|

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